This is a quick post that consist to adding an extra contact to a relay.
In my case I have a lot of relays that have only a normally connected contact (NC). These relays are delivered with automotive alarms and destinated to be used as engine cutoff.
In electronic the most type of relays that are used contain two contacts:
1- Normally closed (NC): marked on automotive relays with number "87a".
2 Normally Open (NO): marked with number "87"
Most of relays manufacturers keep the place for both contacts in the plastic case but they put contacts depending from applications.
So the operation consist first to open the relay i.e to remove the plastic casing:
To have a double contact relay we have to use two simple contact realys. From one relay we have to dismantle the fixed contact and cut it to two parts: one part is used as contact (1) and the other part used as relay terminal (2).
All operations done we have to join the two parts to have electrical connectivity this can be done by simply soldering the two parts.
To finish we have to replace the plastic case and we have a two contacts relay.
Après une panne de ma voiture j'ai décidé de renouveler le projecteur principal et y ajouter des extras sources lumineuses.
Lle projecteur principale d'une FORD FIESTA MK6 comprend toutes les fonctions lumineuses de la voiture à savoir:
La veilleuse (Lampe 12V, 3W).
Le feux de route et de croisement appelés aussi code/phare (Lampe H4 55W en code et 65W en phare).
Clignotant.
Le but de ce post et de montrer comment améliorer et ajouter des personnalisations à ce projecteur. Les modifications seront donc:
La lampe veilleuse convertie en LEDs
Le réflecteur de la lampe H4 normalement peint en noir mat sera couvert de papier aluminium pour améliorer le reflet en mode croisement.
Ajouter une bande à LEDs pour simuler le connu "Angel eye" des projecteurs modernes.
Personnaliser le feux de clignotant avec une plaque portant le sigle "FORD".
Informations Utiles:
Sur Internet on trouve des tonnes d'informations conçernant les différentes technologies des optiques des projecteurs des voitures et des sources lumineuses. Dans notre cas je présente quelques infos conçernant la lampe H4 et le principe de projection de lumière qui se résument dans le deux photos suivantes:
Veuillez bien noter que la lampe H4 se compose de deux filaments: qui est en amant sert comme "code" et qui est au milieu sert comme "phare" le deux filaments ne fonctionnent pas en même temps et il est déconseillé de la faire vu les contraintes de haute température générée par cette lampe.
1- Démontage du projecteur:
Il faut suivre doucement le joint (colle ou silicone) avec des tournevis plats et porte lame pour séparer le mirroir avant du reste du projecteur.
Dans mon cas lorsque j'ai ouvert le projecteur j'étais choqué par son état: trace d'écoulement d'eau, cassures, poussière,...
Après j'ai démonté toutes les pièces (Vis TORX 15 et 20), laver les pièces en plastique, corriger les fissuration avec le pistolet de collage de plastique (silicone transparente).
Veuillez noter que les pièces chromées sont très délicats il faut essayer de ne pas les salir our les toucher directement avec les mains juste les nettoyer avec une pièce en coton.
2- Ajout de la bande à LEDs:
La bande à LED se compose de 48 LEDs moulées dans un type de silicone transparente et consomme un courant 0.31A elle est achetée à 7.5DT (3.5Euros). Elle sera installée sur le cercle contour de la parabole principale en utilisant de la colle forte ou des petits vis.
sont fonctionnement serait personnalisé comme suivant:
En mode veilleuse elle est branchée en parallèle avec la lampe du veilleuse (pleine intensité lumineuse).
En mode croisement sa intensité lumineuse sera réduite en mettant en série une diode et une résistance de 22Ohm (0.5W).
3- Clignotant et réflecteur:
Pour le clignotant j'ai en possession des tickets circulaires portant le sigle FORD et destinés normalement à être coller sur les jantes alu. J'ai pensé d'ajouter des trous et le coller sur le clignotant pour ajouter un effet spécial:
Pour le réflecteur j'ai coller du papier aluminium afin d'augmenter la réflexion de lumière en mode croisement:
4- Résultat final:
reste maintenant à fermer le projecteur en utilisant du silicone:
From a SONY double tape decks with model number "SONY TC-W230" I have picked a nice LCD VU-meter. I have decided to add it to my computer tower case. the following steps explain how to do this.
1- Overview of the SONY VU-Meter:
this is based on IC lablelled CXD1017 (impossible to find a datasheet) on the printed circuit it is easy to identify the connected wires (second photo red rectangle) so we can see: * RES: not used. * -6V: used for the retro-lightening lamp. * LIN: Left channel input. * GND: Ground. * RIN: Right channel input. * +6V: used for powering the circuit and for the retro-lightenning lamp.
The first think that I have done is to look for the schematic circuit of this HIFI equipment and after a long time I have filnally found the service manual. So the following photo shows the VU-Meter schematic diagram:
2- Block Diagram of the project:
To integrate this circuit in the computer case we have to provide two thinks:
* the 6V power source: this can be done by adding a DC/DC converter using the 12V from the PSU.
* the audio channels inputs: from the sound card outputs.
This is a general block diagram of the realization:
3- Replacing lamps:
The lapms used in the VU-Meter to lighten the LCD consume a lot of current this why they are powered by a symetric source -6V and 6V. I have decided to replace them with 4 white LEDS.
On the VU-meter rear cover I have also added an aluminum cover to enchance the LEDs lightening
4- Test the VU-Meter before:
Before I have decided to mount the VU-Meter I have decided to test it because I have picked it from salvaged audio equipement and I don't know if it function or not.
after powering it with 6V (from my adjustable power supply) and I have connected the audio inputs the result was good.
5- Prepare the place for the VU-Meter:
I have opened the computer case and prepare the place to receive the VU-Meter.
6- Place the VU-Meter:
know I have placed the VU-Meter in the fron part of the computer case.
7- The Jack to RCA adaptor:
As my computer is connected the AUX input of my HI-FI system via RCA connectors I have to add an adaptor to convert the audio channel from jack connector of the computer sound card to RCA connectors going to the HI-FI system. this circuit is a simple parallel connexion between jack connector and RCA connectors.
8- DC/DC converter:
it used a simple 7806 regulator and two coupling capacitors (see application not on the datasheet of any L78XX regulators)
9- Assempling the connectors:
the jack to RCA adaptor is assembled on the rear of the computer case.
10- Test:
Finally we can start the computer, listening to an audio file and see the result.
The CFL lamps are very used these days as a solution for economic lights. In TUNISIA the good quality lamps are relatively expensive between 6 TND and 12 TND (about 4$ to 9$). At my house I have not good expeience with this type of lamps most of them are broken after one or two years of working.
Broken CFL in my stock
To have more information about CFL you can see the following good link:
http://www.pavouk.org/hw/lamp/en_index.html
As I have many lightening points I have decided to convert the CFL with LEDs to see the lightening power result. One CFL is replaced with 12 LEDs, one LED cost 0.2TND so one CFL is replaced with LEDs cost 1.4TND (1$) the other electronic components are picked from other electronic devices I already have in my workshop stock and also from the CFL circuit itself.
Powering LEDs from the main 220V source this is an easy manipulation by finding schematics on "google" (for example). I have used the following schematic designed by myself to power 12 LEDs:
Make attention this circuit is connected directly to the dangerous main source. Don't touch any point of the circuit before disconnecting the circuit from source.
1- we start by opening the CFL lamp:
2- Desolder and separate the three main parts of the lamp
We need only the two parts marked with red arrows
3- By examining the circuit we can see that a capacitor is broken, this a common failure on this type of lapms with capcitors fail:
4- I have cutted a circular part of wood that can be assembled on the front plastic part. this wood disc will be used to place the LEDs
5- after that we make the driver circuit and place the LEDs on the wood disc:
6- we solder the parts together:
7- we assemble the parts together and we have the final LED lamp:
8- Power the LED lamp on the main 220V source and the lamp is lightening very good:
9- We can put our lamp with a milli-ammeter to see the current consumption, we can read 22.48mA this give us a lamp of only 4W (this is economic lamp!!!).
To be honnest the lightening is not very powerful, this can be used for low lightening needs. I have used them in my stairs, showroom and hallway.
